Don’t do Seoul alone.

Third trip to Seoul and I still end up eating bindaetteok alone every time. Looking for two or three people who will split plates so we can actually try the whole alley.

I keep a list of the pop-ups that opened this week and like ticking them off in order. Sunday morning, before the crowds — come along if you don’t mind queueing together.

I have four addresses saved and no idea which staircase belongs to which bar. We start with cold draft in the alley, then climb until a steel door feels right.

Market alleys first, then the riverbank until the light turns orange. Digital cameras and phones are just as welcome — the only rule is that we walk slowly.

Early train out, alley cafes in Myeongju-dong, then Anmok Beach with a cup in hand. Back in Seoul by 9pm — book your own KTX seat and I will share the train times.

Two months in Korea and I have only seen big cities. I want one afternoon along the stream: a hanok tea house, the tiny bookshops, and the fortress wall at dusk.

The vintage floor takes patience, and it goes much better with someone holding the other sleeve of a jacket. Cash is easier upstairs, and we’ll grab a late lunch downstairs after.

Buy far too much at Mangwon Market, spread a mat, walk over to the delivery zone when the chicken arrives. Bring a drink you like and we can trade snacks until it gets dark.

I work near Seongsu and usually stay for a coffee after work. If the evening feels right we move on for a drink nearby — that is the whole plan.